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This page is about the Spektrum remote control system, and
how to apply it to robots: in my case, antweight robots, although
I'm sure most of this applies to other weight categories.
Introducing the Spektrum
The basic difference between the Spektrum remote control
system and all the rest (at the moment) is that it doesn't
use crystals. Without getting too technical it adds information
to the signal to make sure that there will be no interference
between transmitters. Here are some advantages
- You don't need to build up a collection of crystals in
order to compete
- You don't need to worry about transmitter control at an
event
- You can go to any model show, and not have to stick to
a narrow band range
- It uses a much higher frequency of signal, so no need
to supress motor noise
- NO INTERFERENCE!
The only disadvantage that I can see is that the Spektrum
is more expensive, but possibly worth the money. Remember
to try ebay before buying from a regular shop. There are some
good deals out there.
Some pictures
Using the system
The AR6000, which is a 6 channel receiver, assigns aircraft
type names to the channels. In the days of Futaba, I would
connect channels 1 and 2 to right and left and use up-diagonal-right
to make the robot go forward. This doesn't work on the Spektrum.
Instead, I use channel 2 (marked AILE on the receiver) for
left and channel 3 (ELE) for the right wheel.
I then reverse the direction of the servos (page 38 of the
manual) and can use up-diagonal-right as before. If I
wanted to use up for forward instead, then I would keep the
servos on their normal setting and turn on the delta wing
function (page 33 of (the
manual).

The schematic above shows the two switches and two joysticks,
and which channels they control.
Plugging in
The Futaba R114F, and most other FM receivers have their
servo plugs at the side. The Spektrum AR6000 has them at the
top, this means that it's trickier to fit into a low space.
I decided to get around this problem by soldering the
connections from the Sozbots motor controller board to the
receiver. I soldered the underside of the receiver board because
there is already solder there, and because I could imagine
the wires getting short circuited amongst all the pins at
the top of the receiver. Also, I might want to plug things
into the top of the receiver someday.
| Where to solder |
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| The view from the back |
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| A closeup of the back |
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| The view from the top |
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The diagram above shows which points I connected. An interesting
point about receivers is that they share one common connection
between all the bottom-black-negative pins and another between
all the middle-white-positive pins.
Knowing this enables you to get away with two fewer wires.
Just run one positive wire from the Sozbots board (these boards
share power between the left and right hand sides, unless
you decide to cut them in half) and attach them to the two
middle pins on sockets 2 and 3. Do a similar job with the
bottom pins on sockets 2 and 3 and the negative wire. Then
connect the left hand side of the Sozbots controller to socket
2 of the receiver, and the right side of the controller to
socket 3 of the receiver.
This technique worked well for me, and also saved some weight.
And finally
This is a work in progress, if you have any comments then
please email me, or comment at The
Robot Wars 101 site.
disclaimer: I hope that this site is useful to you. Do take
care when using tools and use the proper safety equipment.
Remember that taking apart electrical components can be dangerous,
to yourself and to them!
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